April 29, 2007

Breathtaking Molokai

The alarm went off at 3:15 am. We dragged ourselves out of bed, and began a one-day adventure to Kalaupapa Friday, April 27. After a short flight, we were in Molokai. The first stop was the reknowned Mualapuu Cookhouse. P.S. The French toast did not hold a candle to Hukilau Cafe. Next stop was the mule corral "topside."




Away we go. We couldn't choose our position; it was determined by a mule pecking order. Mike was the leader. Nancy brought up the rear. This mule business will be a breeze on my new pal, Balooga.

On second thought ... Yikes! Easy, Boy.
Straight down. Our first look at Kalaupapa. This is where the government banished patients with Hansen's disease (leprosy) for a century until 1968. The sea cliffs created a secure fortress to send the unfortunate victims until they died.I'm glad to be at the bottom. The ocean was deep blue, the weather ideal, the scenery absoultely breathtaking, but my knees and "sit down" will never be the same. Supporting the local economy while getting a brief rundown from Riley Moffat on LDS Church history sites on the peninsula. It may not be a luxury bus, but the tour was great. Ken Arima, in the middle, is the expert on Mormon history. He found what is believed to be Jonathan Nepela's homesite. Our bus driver was from Kaneohe and gives tours about twice a month. This is where visitors came. They were only allowed in Kalaupapa a total of seven days a year and could not roam about. They were restricted to the visitor's sleeping quarters and this visitor's room a few feet away. It was a prison within a prison. Patients went in one door, visitors in the other. No physical contact was permitted ...... not even in the LDS church. Notice the two pulpits and the big aisle down the middle of the chapel. There are only 3 LDS members remaining in Kalaupapa and 2 of them were in the hospital in Honolulu.
Not far from the Napela home site, a crater rises out of the middle of the peninsula. It provides a nice view and was used as a burial place.
This might be the most beautiful vista I've ever seen. Behind us lie the tallest sea cliffs in the world, Hawaii's longest waterfall, and crashing surf. It was here that the first patients were put ashore and left with no provisions, no shelter and no hope.
Father Damien, a contemporary of Jonathan Napela and champion for the patients on the island, is buried here in Kalawao, on the opposite (eastern) side of the peninsula from Kalaupapa.
Along the road to the air strip, the Protestant cemetery goes on and on. I took these out of the bus window. The photos aren't great, but you get the picture.
It's back in the saddle again. Ready for our assent 3.5 miles up the cliff.

It's a long way down.

Unforgettable.

Serenade at the top.

3 comments:

Hannah said...

That is BEAUTIFUL! I can't wait to see the rest of the pictures!

Sarah said...

Looks like a blast mom. Wish I could have been there.

Christy said...

Do people still live there? Do they have leprosy?